Venice, Quickly

I’ve been to Venice twice.  The first time I stayed at Hotel Danieli in a beautiful blue and gold room overlooking a small canal.  The Gondoliers sang as they passed by my window.  Good thing it was a nice room, because I spent almost all of my several days in Venice in it and in bed.

I was sick in Venice.  It wasn’t because of the sewage in the water, the dampness, the warm air.  It was the summer flu — vicious and untimely.  My only memories of the trip are walking in Piazza San Marco for about two minutes, and weakly eating one dinner at a small restaurant tucked away on a side street.   I never lingered on the piazza in a misty light, with a cup of coffee, listening to the gulls.  My husband saw the sights on his own and reported back to me each day.  I studied the blue and gold wall paper, and watched the sun make light and shadows across the elegant room. And I slept.

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The Story of My Eye

That particular Saturday, there was almost no indication that my eye was about to stage a coup.  In fact it was a perfectly beautiful day, that last day.  We spent the day at the beach in Follonica.  The water was clear and calm, the sky was blue, the breeze was balmy and the sun was bright. We ate Nutella sandwiches and chocolate milk for lunch, followed by ice cream.  It was a yummy sweet day. In retrospect, there were perhaps a few clues.  On the way home, my eye watered, and it ached a little.  The ache increased when evening came. I went to bed early, tired out from the sun and sand.  I awoke in the middle of the night because of an explosion.  My eye had exploded.  It was swollen to three times it’s own size.  It was red, leaking, and there was intense pain.

And that was how it began.  From that moment forth, most everything I knew about myself ceased to exist, and I became only an eye, a big swollen, painful eye. My eye pushed away everything else and took over.  Only it mattered. It was huge, my face misshapen.  This explosion had left nothing else of me.  My eye — its needs, wants, desires, pains, foul moods, and endless secretions were all that  was left.

Sunday and Monday remain a blur of darkened rooms, intense pain and a throbbing eye.  I self medicated — chamomile tea compresses, ice to soothe the pain, I ate Advil like candy.  I washed it gently every hour to release the matting, the secretions that wove it tightly together in a matter of minutes. One mantra repeated itself, over and over:  eye, eye, eye, eye.

Tuesday the pharmacist in our village of Impruneta walked us over to the Doctor’s office, and he looked at me with concern.  “Pronto soccorso oculistico”  he pronounced.  The emergency room, or more specifically, the emergency for eyes at Careggi.

I was led there, blind, eye still weeping.  After an hour of waiting in a corner with my head in my hands, the Doctor was ready to see me.  “We are admitting you for intravenous antibiotics, and you will likely have permanent visual damage as a result of this infection.”

I spent six days in the hospital.  My hospital room  had green walls and a cross with Jesus and no machines in it.  A tall doctor with impeccable english helped me.  A short doctor with a firm handshake sent me warmth with his smile.   A nurse in green leaned close and dropped medicine in my eye. The days in the hospital blend into each other.  Mornings spent eavesdropping on conversations that I could not understand.  Learning the word for pain in Italian – dolori.

My whole world, then and now, is an eye.  I am one giant pulsing eye.  An eye with a personality: “Intensely shy, does not like light, melts with a soft touch, cringes with roughness.”  My eye likes to weep.  It is like on of those magically weeping statues of the virgin Mary, that cries and cries without stopping.

My eye is bright red, swollen, and oozing.  My eye is an ugly thing, but it doesn’t care.  it has no vanity.

For two of my five nights in the hospital, I was the only patient on the hall.  I spent hours listening to the various sounds of silence.  The click click of the ceiling fan, a faint buzz from a fluorescent light down the hall, the far off conversation of the nurses.  Sounds of the highway, sounds of the wind.  On occasion the sound of the elevator, or a cart rumbling down the hall. When they let me go, after six days in room number seven, I was in heaven.  It was too bright, but nonetheless, we went to a cafe for a cappuccino and a croissant.  It was pure delight, and the breeze felt so nice on my skin.  I kept my eyes closed.

Fourteen days later, I am still in bed, (with an occasional outing to a cafe, for that coffee and that breeze).  I am still mostly only an eye.   Corneal Ulcer.   I visit the hospital every other day, “A little best, –a little better” my doctor says.  My eye still weeps.  Still pain.  I still like it dark.  These things take a while to heal.  So I wait.

Peace Corps, Niger/Endings



I was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Niger.  For two years I lived in that dusty, difficult, beautiful, challenging and amazing country.  I lived in a village called Ouallam, north of the capital city of Niamey.  My experience there was life-changing, as simple as and as complicated as that.

Life there for me mirrored the harshness and contradictions of that country — I made wonderful friends, and at times I felt very lonely.  Through my friendships and my work with the people there, I experienced the consequences of poverty, the sorrow of death, the happiness of simple pleasures, the warmth of connection and community.

I had a little dog named Sam and a calf named Tom.  I worked at a clinic for mothers and babies, helping with the baby weighings, talking about child nutrition and breastfeeding with the women there.  I was lucky to see babies born, a miracle.   And I was devastated to witness a stillbirth, where even the mother, following the birthing custom, gave birth in complete silence.

Those moments, both happy and sad, stay with me to this day.

I made a home in Niger.  A home with a stick bed, a mosquito net, an outhouse, my animals, my friends.

I was sad to learn about the kidnapping and death of some French aid workers in January, and to learn that Peace Corps evacuated its volunteers.  My heart goes out to the families of those aid workers and to the volunteers ending their service.

I didn’t feel fear often in Niger, but I do remember a trip further North with some fellow volunteers where we were surrounded in the main square, a moment of insecurity and fear before we were able to move out of the crowd and into a safe place.  But mostly my own memories are of feeling welcome and at home.

In my current home, I have some reminders of my time there.   The pictures posted show a hat I bought there, and the fringed leather box on the mantle contains three tea cups — drinking sweet hot tea with Tuareg friends being a favorite memory.

Even though the year has only just begun, it’s been a week of endings.   A beloved former teacher, Sheila Nielsen, died.  She was vibrant and energetic.  Straightforward.  Where the slow pace of Niger may have taught me a certain amount of patience, I think that Mrs. Nielsen taught me something different.  She taught me to “Seize the Day.”

So in the face of many endings, there is the possibility for new beginnings.  And I remind myself, as Mrs. Nielsen might have said “Carpe Diem.”

What is ending/beginning for you in your life?

The Sparrow

sparrowMy grandmother told me a story once: when she was little, she used to travel with her father from Florida, to her grandparents in North Carolina.  By car, of course.  Five little girls in one car.  Over and over again, she asked her father:  “What time is it?“  And every time, he would pull out his pocket watch from his pocket and tell her what time it was.  She said that he never grew impatient, and never said a harsh word.

This short film, titled “What is That?”  reminded me of that story.  An article in the NY Times recently wondered if Shouting is the New Spanking.   Like the man in this film (and the parents in that article), I am acquainted with both impatience and shouting.  When I do begin to lose impatience, sometimes I think about the story my grandmother told me, and I try to take a deep breath and regain my composure.  (Deep breathing — so simple, so effective).

My grandmother also told me that during that trip she hounded and hounded her father for a beer.  She was only seven years old at the time, but she had somehow got it into her head that a beer was just the thing to quench her thirst.  Finally, my great-grandfather acquiesced.  He gave her a beer.  She took a great big gulp and found it extremely distasteful.  And she never asked him for a beer again.